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Fall/Winter 2010: Paris
Rick Owens
Careful, you might damage your computer from all the drool. If you're one of the many patrons of the Rick Owens cult, this next collection will most definitely strike your fancy even further. I've been noticing throughout, that there has been an interesting mix in Paris of exotic leathers. Rick Owens surely expresses his idea with gorgeously made Python or Crocodile wedge boots; this of course paired with cropped wool trousers and a gorgeously done leather and corduroy Trompe L'oeil jacket. Perhaps as one of the greatest highlights of the collection were the 3/4 length leather gloves that extended past the fingers, fringed off with fur—available in black and natural snakeskin, Crocodile, and lambskin. As the models walked down the catwalk in an array of exotic leathers, broad shouldered jackets, signature sleeveless tops, and fur lined funnel neck jackets, you can't help but admire how well it all fits together. The cohesion is impeccable, the fabrication is of course luxe as always, and regardless of how wild the footwear is, it seemingly just works out.
Lanvin
While I personally would not go on an adventurous hike or expedition wearing expensive clothing—of course unless the trails were paved in gold,—I'd probably wear Lanvin's Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Of all the collection's that I have took the pleasure of examining, Lanvin never fails to impress me. Team work has played a significant role in creating Lanvin's menswear to which allowed it to evolve into what it is today: magnificent. If we know Lanvin well, we take notice to the dark and muted colorways, raw edges, high quality hardware, technologically advanced fabrication, beautiful craftsmanship, and pure luxury. Lanvin's Fall/Winter 2010 collection was an interesting cohesive blend of street and sleek. While remaining cohesive to the fullest extent, this collection went back and forth between street chic and refined gentleman: slim cargo style trousers with waist hugging belts; an interestingly casual and baggy velvet suit, paired with an oversize boiled wool coat; cropped wool coats with a potato sack draw string trousers; oversize knits paired with lambskin fingerless gloves; and the most gorgeous tuxedo style tailcoat paired with post-apocalyptic skinny nylon trousers. Highlight accessories included not only the delectable leather fingerless lambskin gloves, but the ever so popular neck wear, python double monk strap's, slimline head bands, and of course, boots.
Ann Demeulemeester
It makes me wonder how many times one can depict a single woman continuously, over and over. Demeulemeester somehow has been able to transform Patti Smith consistently and continuously throughout her men's collections, and once again, generated a collection that is not only different from the others, but maintains the aesthetic. Demeulemeester's Fall/Winter 2010 collection is of course, as always, monochromatic, with a hint of beige; featuring drawstring potato sack trousers, vertical stripes, dangling chain swagger, military style trousers, an amazing take on the staple leather jacket, and several wrap sweaters. The collection reminds you of Lanvin's Fall/Winter 2010, which also has a similar idea of the casual guy blended with the refined gentleman. What got my attention the most this season from both Demeulemeester and other designers, are the reintroduction of the cargo pant. They'll only work of course if they look good, and Demeulemeester nails it.
Dior Homme
While Kris Van Assche's previous collections for Dior Homme did not give a wow factor, it is no surprise that his Fall/Winter 2010 received the same response from me. Sometimes I wonder if he toned it down purposely, only to put more work into his epyonomous label. Van Assche's take on this season completely delved away from the ever so popular "skinny" look that we're used to, as expressed by Hedi Slimane. Although a garment doesn't necessarily have to fit like spandex to look good, this particular collection seemingly was unfortunately unflattering in my opinion. The coats and jackets seemed too boxy, styled with super tiny collars and baggy trousers. It was seemingly ill proportioned, but somehow had it's own personal aesthetic. While the aesthetic was not pleasing to me, I also hae to think about the fact that it would be silly to wear every aspect of a runway style outside; it's better to mix and match. I couldn't blast it based on the styling completely. I didn't see a whole lot of cropped trousers this season, however Dior Homme was filled with them. Unfortunately, this wasn't working for me due to the bagginess of the trousers. It literally looked like they were just too short for the models instead of intentionally cut short—this applied only to a few, as the trousers went back and forth between slim and baggy. Overall, the collection can be easily worn by the overweight now without having to feel awkward.
Givenchy
Tisci is perhaps the only person who could interestingly enough put sandals on models during a Fall/Winter show. Although your toes will be freezing in the cold fall and winter months, don't despair, as you will be able to wear body hugging black spandex leggings with them. It's okay though, just don't wear socks with your sandals. The collection was very minimal, but somehow had some elements to it that were very intriguing to the eye—the sandals of course with the spandex leggings under shorts; crisp white shirts; ridiculously skinny navy trousers paired with a double breasted jacket featuring super slim lapels; lots and lots of hooded jackets and parkas; the most interesting raw edged wool bib and if you want to be Jesus for a night: a gold thorn crown. Overall, if you're interested in going to a chic funeral and after-party, Givenchy Fall/Winter 2010 is most likely for you.
Raf Simons
Always seemingly able to maintain a constant innovator and somehow manages to successfully mix techno fabrics with classic fabrics and keep it looking good, always boggles my mind and makes me love Raf more than normal. What other designer would stitch a down filled nylon train on a wool jacket? or tuck a wool coat inside a high waist skirt? or re-invent the monk strap with Velcro? or bring back... the square toed shoe? Hm... Maybe that's the only thing I'm not liking. Setting aside the atrocious square toed shoes, Raf kept the collection extremely interesting: snap closure suiting, triple layered trench coats, and my personal favorite: the ribbed burgundy front cinched knit with a matching wrap. Once again, Raf proves that he is a worthy adversary of both the classic tailored world, and the avant-garde.
Yves Saint Laurent
Mr.Pilati, are those Wool overalls?! Why Yes, yes they are. Paired gorgeously with matching long wool and leather gloves. Kind of makes you want to just rip it right off the runway and sport it before it hits the stores. The overall's were the definitive staple of the collection. There was an interesting blend of both skinny and baggy throughout. Belted jackets with simplistic wool fringe scarves, harem pants, shearling leather jackets, and cozy wool socks. The collection was overall simplistic, casual, but extremely masculine. It was a definite crowd pleaser, and surely will do well in stores—especially the overalls.
Adam Kimmel
How does this man make the revenue to continue showing this crap?
Fall/Winter 2010: Milan
Burberry Prorsum
As perhaps one of the better shows at Milan fashion week, although were late as it is with doing these reviews, Burberry Prorsum made a strong entrance with what Christopher Bailey is good at: heritage. While keeping the Burberry heritage as he does with all of his collections for each of Burberry's subsidiary lines, Prorsum always remains the forefront of each line with it's luxurious fabrication, military inspired garments, and of course, its innovative edge. While menswear tends to lack innovation, Milan tends to set us straight on occasion with some amazing pieces. Prorsum featured super skinny trousers, gorgeous asymmetrical leather trenches, and lambskin coats, Accessory wise, Prorsum featured lined calf-high boots, as well as leather trompe l'oeil calf-high boots. While some pieces in the collection were less innovative than previous seasons, we did see some amazing embellished pieces such as a wool pea coat featuring an exuberant amount of hand sewn brass shank buttons on each cuff; this and a sweater with similar detailing creating faux shoulder pads. This season was definitely more top heavy as well; oversize knitwear, as well as coats. Interestingly enough, the collection seemed to clasp some of the trench coats with webbed belts which I thought were very J.Crew. Interestingly enough, Bailey seemed to make it look very luxurious. Last but not least, we also have been noticing these past two winters — which was also featured in Prorsum's Fall/Winter 2010 collection — cropped coats. They look amazing with tunic length knits (think Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2009, off-runway Navy cropped wool jacket).
Alexander McQueen
We open up with the most atrocious bowl haircuts, although we're talking fashion here, hair and appearance are definitely a key goal to an outfit looking good. While I'll choose to ignore this, I still have to make a mentioning of it. McQueen's Fall/Winter 2010 collection was pattern heavy for sure as he always is. Extremely abstract, but also very well fabrication and couture-esque interconnecting patterns. It was definitely reminiscent of those "Magic Eye" optical illusions, the sight of these garments were somewhat giving me a headache unfortunately. Although it was only the first few pieces that showed signs of these abstract patterns, the next piece — an oversize jumper with a knit skull in the center, combined with fur shoulder pads — cured my vertigo and made me think of a game of football with Chelsea queens. Eventually getting better as the models walked down the cat-walk, what caught my eye in a positive way was a trench coat with an illusive vertical patterned fabric. The most interesting part about this trench however, was the innovative curve of the gun flap that ended at the far end of the collar, as opposed to the near collar. Several minute details such as that are what makes me so interested in the future of menswear. This as well as the the straps at the trouser cuffs, Bacalva's, and of course, cropped coats.
Bottega Veneta
Once again, ridiculously bad haircuts, but i'll once again ignore it. Bottega's collection for Fall/Winter 2010 was actually much more younger than previous seasons. It seems as if the collection has gotten edgier — very good — and will target a new demographic for them. The collection seemed very street-wearish with a blend of biker-chic and high-end hiking expedition. Although a staple, denim seemed a bit heavy with the collection, however did not weigh it down. It had an equal balance with the leather, since it is their specialty. Nearing the end of the collection, Bottega's suiting definitely got a little edgier, although it reminded me of what someone living on the shores of Malibu would wear to their prom if they had a lot of money and were attempting to be edgy. This isn't always a bad thing though since it seemed like you could possibly work it out. The roped shoulders seemed unusually high, but not Gareth Pugh high, which gave a sense of edge, but still remaining classic. Neck wear this season was minimal, somewhat reminding me of Robert Geller's neck wear — Western-esque string bow ties.
Jil Sander
Oh Raf, you dreamboat, you. Now we've gotten to the innovation in Milan. While Paris is still burning at the moment with hot designers, Milan has Raf Simons to show off his collection for publicly owned Jil Sander. What I like about Raf's design aesthetic, is that he loves to industrialize his silhouettes. Geometric shapes reminiscent of industrial design. The suiting for this collection featured the most interesting trompe l'oeil appliques over classic areas of a men's suit — pockets and front closure, as well as geometrical gun flaps. This design is repeated throughout the collection from the suits, to the jackets, and even into the knitwear. The cat-walk began to get less edgier and became more classic. Jil definitely needs to target the less edgier clientele as well to keep the money flowing in. Once again, the edge began to come back. It was a roller coaster of fashion in my face — thank goodness. The collection seemed to go back and forth, yet maintaining a balance between innovative and classic. It was a very intriguing collection, interesting, minimal yet never boring.
Pringle of Scotland
Whoa Pringle, look out. You're joining the clan of edgy labels. Typically when you look at Pringle of Scotland, you think expensive J.Crew with a little bit more flair. While that usually has always been the case for me when looking at it, their Fall/Winter 2010 collection has probably been its best so far. With Pringle being Pringle, the collection was of course knit heavy. The knits for this particular collection were kind of amazing actually, which tells me that they must of gotten some really great technical knitwear designers. Lots of oversized jumpers and shredding — reminds you of a mixture of Les Hommes and Nice Collective. Although the brand has some amazing knitwear arrangements, the ready-to-wear was not that bad at all, however the one thing that looked silly were the skirts. Although Comme des Garçons — and sadly enough, Marc Jacobs — have reintroduced Scottish influence in street punk style with Kilts, Pringle of Scotland were sure to jump on the bandwagon; Unfortunately for them, their Kilts looked way too much like women's skirts. Last but not least, the oversize fur mittens. I believe it was either Burberry Prorsum or Dolce & Gabbana that did that about 2 or 3 seasons ago?
Prada
Aside from the super cropped knitwear, it was a horrible collection. Supremely disappointed. It literally looked like Missoni and Dries Van Noten eloped and out popped Prada Fall/Winter 2010, but came out deformed like every season of Marc By Marc Jacobs' knitwear for women.
Udorse.com Contest
In a celebratory effort by newly launched website, Udorse.com, members and readers are eligible to win an exclusive photo shoot here in New York City with international photographer Julio Gaggia, as well as expert styling from our lovely friend Justin Violini. Interested? Visit Udorse.com and enter promo code "HMBY" for a chance to win.
Finalists for the contest will have their images looked over by a panel of experts from Vanity Fair; Armani Exchange; and leading independent film, theater, and television producer, Carl Rumbaugh.
Udorse.com is an online community that rewards its members by having you simply share photographs of yourself via Facebook, Twitter, or ones that you just simply upload to Udorse.com. Enter keywords or "hot words" for each image of yourself in your hottest outfit or venue that you just happen to be at. The more hot words you post, the more points you rack up. Receive free offers, designer discounts, invitations to exclusive VIP events, and more.
In all honesty it's cute and an interesting way to show off your gear. Or, if you're not too much into the flashyness aspect of that, post what venues you happen to be partying at.
Interviews: Justin Violini
We at HOMMEBOY.net are kicking the new year off with Mr. Justin Violini.
He's the assistant men's buyer for Gilt Man, devout follower of the
Rick Owens cult, honorary Gayasian, and permanent fixture at The Box on
Tuesday nights. Quite frankly, Justin is too many things in our book, but that's why
we adore him. In our first interview of 2010, Justin tells us about
life as a buyer, the constant pursuit of pleasure, and "glunge".
What do you love most about job at Gilt?
I
love the fact that we are in hyper-growth and to that I was an early
part of something that has the potential to be a major game changer in the market and retail. To give some perspective
I was about the 30th employee and very soon we will have almost 300.
It's also fun to be out and about and meet people and when they find
out I work for Gilt often times their eyes light up and will go into a
story about something they bought off the site (and are usually wearing
it at the same time!).
What's your thought process as a buyer?
Most people think the question asked to oneself is "Would I
wear this?" That's false. It's "Would our members wear this?" The
most exciting thing about Gilt is that we encompass a wide range of
members with varying styles and tastes. When in market we also have to
think about how something will translate to the website and if it will
be visually compelling for the customer. While you may be able to tell
the difference between 6 blue and white stripe shirts in person...on
the sale page they will all look the same and we don't want the member
wasting time clicking into each one to zoom and see the subtle
differences.
Which men's designers have been your best sellers?
You can look around any major department store and see the designers
who have the most presence—typically that's someone like John
Varvatos, Ralph Lauren, and Theory. Other very popular brands on the
site include Band of Outsiders, Vilebrequin, Richard Chai, Yohji
Yamamoto and Jil Sander.
Rodarte + ♂ = Brodarte
Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the sister act behind current breakout label Rodarte, are giving guys like us a taste of what they do best. Available only at Opening Ceremony, Rodarte is offering 4 styles of their mixed-knit sweaters for men (as popularized in their the S/S 2009 show). However, we do hope you have the $2760 to spend, or at least have a cracked out grandmother who can do just as good a knitting job. Not to worry, the label in collaboration with Opening Ceremony is also releasing a few limited edition styles of cheeky tees and sweatshirts (J'aime Rodarte? But of course) reasonably priced between $105-155.
Happy Holidays
We at HOMMEBOY.net wish you an amazing holiday season and new year no matter what you celebrate. Although yours truly is the biggest atheist on the planet, Christmas is pretty, therefore celebrating the season with ornaments, trees, mistletoe's, and various other festive items in the shapes of our favorite labels.
Expect more from us after the holiday. We know we've been lazy. It's difficult pleasing the over 45 countries that visit us at HOMMEBOY.net.
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